The Fairwater Collection !

An MGBGTV8 Sebring and some interesting Land Rover conversions.
Now, see also my professional site at: www.met-alchemy.com !

MG Page 3. How clean is your bottom? End of July and first half of August.

Having cleaned off the underseal with a heat gun, scraper and chisel, and then sprayed the residue off with petrol, (being very mindful of the safety precautions while doing so; (I did it outside with no electric tools about, no electric switches and making sure of no static electrical discharges being some of the less obvious ones), using a solvent gun as shown in use by Morgan, below, if you remember from the "Spit Roast" page, we had a result like this.

(25th July 2008)

We will now take a look at some of the detail in this picture and ask you if you are still happy with your thirty something year old original underseal, and whether you really think that yearly or so overspraying with "Waxoyl" (yuk), will keep your valued classic in the condition you would like it to be.  After this I will enlighten the reader into my personal solution to the problem. 

Worse still is the question as to whether your recently restored valued classic has been protected properly by the restorer.  My pictures show that 15 year old restoration work treated with "Waxoyl" underseal, is in far worse condition than the rest of the underside still coated in original underseal.

 

The rear chassis legs have extensive surface rusting, and the floor is similar.  Battery cage at top of picture.  New cill at bottom, also with extensive surface rust.

Floor and heelboard with spring front mount at top, battery cage and tunnel at bottom.  Much surface rust in evidence under what was "good" underseal.

End of rear chassis leg with filler neck hole and valance at bottom of picture.  Again, much surface rusting underneath what appeared to be good underseal.

"New" cills both looked like this underneath the "Waxoyl" underseal.  It is noticeable that the condition of the new metal fitted fifteen years ago, is worse than the original under the original underseal.

 

"New" jacking point and cill with original remaining crossmember and floor.  Some pinholes in crossmember.  More about those later in this paragraph.

Front chassis leg and floor section showing terminal post and clutch hose bracket.

Chassis leg in region of engine mounting has extensive surface rusting.

The tunnel has extensive surface rusting inside.

 

This below is rather a dodgy looking repair made by the restorers to the body crossmember.  I suppose being out of sight it doesn't have to be too pretty, but still, this does look awful.  Due to there being some pin holes around it and it had been dented, I decided to cut it off.  I found that the interior of the crossmember was not in very good condition, and that unlike elsewhere on the car, the pin holes had come through from the inside, not gone in from outside.  The interior was full of "corn flakes" of rust from the inside of the crossmember.  I decided therefore to remove the crossmember and replace it with a new one.  At the same time I could inspect the interior of the front chassis legs visually from where they join onto the crossmember.

( Still 25th July 2008)

 

And there it was, gone. Photographed on 8th August 08.

 

And here is the pile of cornflakes from inside which led me to decide to take off the whole thing.  The two larger bits are the remains of the former repair pieces.

 

Next, the rest of the crossmember was tackled, using the sabre saw, which made light work of it.  It was cut off through the box section, leaving the spot welded flange still in situ.

(8th August 2008)

 

Some parts had to be sectioned to remove them.  You can just see some of the extensive surface rusting inside the box section. This could not have reasonably been left in situ. in this condition. The floor itself is pretty well free from rust.

 

Morgan helps to remove the section inside the end of the front leg, by chiselling sufficiently to get the saw in.  Flanges either side are left as per the original layout, in order to weld to the new crossmember.   Opening out the ends of the front legs showed that these front legs are in good internal condition, and will enable rust converter and then wax injection effectively, before re-closure.

(8th August 2008)

 

After some deliberation it was decided that the jacking points too would be taken off, seeing as we were fitting a complete new crossmember, so out with the saw again.

(150808 after a week of rain).

 

And again, there it was, gone:

(150808)

 

And here is the crossmember prepared ready to take the new one.  Treatment internally still to be done.

(150808)

This is what the crossmember looks like from the inside.  Scary stuff so it's just as well got rid of.

 

These inside shots of the front chassis legs looking forwards from the open ends exposed at the removed crossmember show that these legs are in good internal condition.  Spraying with rust converter and Dinitrol will ensue before closing up.  The oblong shape on the bottom of the inside is the captive fixings for the gearbox crossmember.  At the front can be seen the end of the horizontal section and at the end,  the curve up at the front over the front axle. The shiny bits are grindings having blown in when removing and dressing up the crossmember.

(150808)