The Fairwater Collection !

An MGBGTV8 Sebring and some interesting Land Rover conversions.
Now, see also my professional site at: !

(1) Basic repairs and prep to the top half of the shell. Other bits and pieces.

The 2009 season has started with some really nice weather.  The thing is still on its side, but I am in no real hurry as I want to make sure that everything I can do with it on its side is done.  Meanwhile a clean up and paint of a few other things was in order.

The front crossmember is an RV8 item which was sourced unexpectedly cheaply, and so I will give it a go.  It came whole, as a bolt on assembly complete with cranked anti roll bar, and new steering rack, which were bonuses, especially the anti roll bar which will clear the larger pulley on the new engine.

Cleaning it down revealed that the crossmember had been painted from new, as Rover tended to do in the 90's, with horrible plasticy paint, which is similar to powder coating.  It is horrible, because once there is a tiny nick in the coating, moisture pours in and the layer of paint quickly delaminates.  You don't even notice this and so however much wax you think you are protecting it with by spraying on the surface which appears to be intact, unbeknown to you, the surface is flaking off and there is an increasingly large area of rust hidden behind it.  I scraped virtually all of this paint off my cross member and just about all of it came off in large flakes, leaving a surface with well established surface rust.

Look at this flaky paint.  Before I started cleaning up, this appeared to be good solid paint.  In fact it is a detached layer with rust behind it, ready to flake off in its entirety.  This can only be described as deliberate obsolescence by the manufacturer.  It is designed to fail and increase the rate of rusting of the steel components by many times over that of a normally painted surface.

10th April 2009

Here are some of the big flakes of paint which virtually fell off with the aid of a chisel sliding underneath them.

Below is the cross member with most of the flaky paint removed.  You can see that virtually all of it has come off and virtually the whole of the surface which was underneath it has lots of surface rust.  It is pretty surprising really how extensive this is.

Morgan again after chocolate supplies, heads off with the drill and wire brush combo, removing loose rust scale ready for painting.
11th April 2009

Much wire brushing and work with a poly wheel has resulted in most of the rust being removed to shiny metal on the whole.  Work is not quite finished yet, below.

Now this is a bit better.  Three coats of  Tetrosyl Chassis Paint.   Gearbox crossmember at front of trolley, similarly treated.
24th April 2009

While this was underway, the car was still on its side.  This was to try to make sure that there was not going to be anything else coming out of the woodwork which would be better done before turning it over. 

Lots of time was taken then to clean up and refurbish other bits and fittings ready for painting and eventual refitting.  There comes a point where enough is enough however and later in May, it was decided that now was the time to turn it back over and finish the bits which could not be done while it was on its side. 

Over it went then, and the remaining sections of wheel arch and inner body were cleaned down and painted in the same way that the underside was. taking advantage of some good weather.

The top edges of the inner wing where it turns over onto the scuttle are a particularly vulnerable area.  Normally in restoration, these areas don't get painted properly because cars are usually sprayed after the wings are put on.  The wings are not totally immobile, meaning that they are not fixed sufficiently solidly to prevent all possible movement at this joint.  The result is that this joint, when filled with paint, always cracks and leaks water, resulting in rusting.  I will refinish the body without wings in place, and then mastic the joints on fitting the wings, giving a waterproof flexible joint, keeping the painted surfaces protected.
30th May 2009

This is all good metal but it needs protection which Waxoyl cannot give. The bottom of the pillar below was a previous repair, but this is still intact.  The insides of the pillars will be treated with Dinitrol or Shell Ensis.  

Surface rust with some pitting cleaned up, treated with Jenolite ready for painting.

Following this, much was done on refinishing more of the fittings, such as brake lines where serviceable for re-use under the bonnet, master cylinders and other under bonnet fittings.  On pulling the master cylinders apart, the bores were seen to be perfect, and the rubbers appeared to be fine too.  It was therefore decided to reassemble with the original rubbers.  Original rubbers, where serviceable, are probably better than anything available new today, thanks to the absolute garbage that has flooded the market from China and the resulting contraction of the home manufacturing base.  Don't buy any new stuff manufactured in China, as it is total rubbish.  They look ok but don't conform to any standards at all. 

1st July 2009

While this was underway, much thought was put into what to do about the rest of the bodywork.  It all needs refinishing, but I have always hankered after a Sebring conversion.  The Sebring conversion suits the MGB so well, and now the car is at this stage, this is the time to do it.  After very extended thought over several days, then, it was decided to go ahead with this.  As I have never seen a good article on making this conversion, I will devote a new page to the conversion, and carry on here with the rest of the putting back together as it happens.

In stripping down the rear end, I had to remove the trims from the gutter and wing tops, remove the rear side windows and seals to get to the shell to refinish it properly. I was not going to scrimp on a respray by going around these bits and leaving them undone.  This is a particularly important decision in view of this below.  This will need weld repair, but now the wings are open and accessible from underneath, these areas can be successfully prepared from underneath as well as from the top, making conservation easier.

The bright metal trims are held on with rivets which have their steel centres still intact.  These are almost impossible to drill out straight, as drills always wander out through the softer surrounding metal.  However these steel centres can be punched through with a nail punch, after which drilling out is a piece of cake.

Below is the inner top surface of the rear wings, with rear pillar in the back ground.  Extensive surface rusting where water has ingressed through the holes shown above, in the rear corner of the window frame.  The central flange is heavily corroded and missing in places but the overall integrity of the outer skin is still good and easily conserved.

23rd July 2009

Below is the driver's side inside the body showing the end of the cill at the bottom, the door pillar at the front, with the curve around the bottom of the door to the right and the inner panel to the left. Outer wing panel to the right.  All nice and intact.

Time to do some work again.  Rather than instigate some complicated welding on the holes under the rear windows, I wanted to try this stuff.  It fills holes a treat, goes off very hard, sticks very tightly, can be worked and sanded smooth etc.  All these repairs are normally hidden from view so we shall see how this repair lasts.  It is certainly worth the experiment as it is far easier than welding it up.

The most awkward bit to repair.  The base of the rear light fin, which I have cut out, below.

9th August 2009

Old and new fin pieces below.  Base is cut from sheet steel and given fold up sides to fill the holes in the wing side and rear panel.  I think all this damage was as a result of water ingress through the holes under the rear corner of the side window.

Prepped boot floor.  Lots of surface rust ground off and treated with Jenolite.  Subsequent to this it was sprayed with etch primer and brushed with Bonda Primer.

17th August 2009

Turning attention to the front footwells, these were coated from new with thick coverings of tar or bitumen.  This presumably is a sound proofer.  By and large it has also preserved the floor from rusting, but nevertheless it has cracked in lines all along its length at the position of the floor strengthening corrugations.  It was decided that because of this, and obvious signs of rust staining coming through these cracks, these bituminous layers would have to be removed.

This was achieved with the heat gun in the same way as the underseal.  It comes off really easily with the heat gun, while without it, it will not move.

25th August 2009 showing cracks in bitumen surface.  Partially removed in foreground.

Big pile of scraped off bitumen awaiting removal.  Floor pretty good.  Some surface rust now to treat.  The tunnel is covered with underseal, which is painted, and then glue which attaches the rubber side covering on the driver's side.  It looks a right mess, but is solid. The front most piece of bitumen is still in situ and this can be seen with its cut line, below the front carpet section.

New tail fin finally butt welded in place.
17th October 2009

The devil is in the detail.

Prepping the shell for priming prior to respray.

Taking the screen out revealed a lot of deep rust pitting in the inner frame which had to be ground out with the tungsten carbide cutter below.
25th October 2009

Grinding rust out of the spot welds in the pillar, inside the rainstrip.
25th October 2009

Inside the rain strip is this fillet of seam sealer filling the edge of the spot welded joint.  Scraping it out reveals much surface rust  underneath which needs to be dealt with.
25th October 2009

The horrors lying under the sealing rubber for the rear screen.  All will be ground out with the tungsten carbide cutter and treated with Jenolite.

The tent blew down in the summer and has now been replaced by a specially built polycarbonate shelter, the sides of which can be seen here.  It's much better.

That's about it for the 2009 season.  The winter 09/10 period was one of the laborious process of prepping the whole shell and priming it prior to spraying in colour in the spring of 2010.  I am describing much of the prepping etc. on the Sebring conversion page, as much of it relates to the fettling up of the conversion wings etc.  Prepping the main shell for eventual spraying in colour started in October 2009, and was ongoing through January, February and into March 2010.

(2) Early 2010. Body shell prepping for final finish.

I have to say firstly at this stage that throughout my whole history of vehicle ownership and conversion work etc. my efforts have been virtually wholly mechanical other than the Land Rovers which have bolt together bodywork and do not in the main require much preparation work body wise due to their nature.  I have always hated doing bodywork and and have considered it a black art sent from Satan himself.  Consequently the efforts I have had to make in the past have been poor and hastily exercised as regards filling prepping and finishing.  Thus I have steered away from it like the plague.

Now however, this is a different ball game.  Exceptionally good preparation was going to be needed to make any sort of job of finishing the MG, especially with the Sebring Conversion and its bodily requirements.  I knew this but like lots of things, basically put it off until I had to be faced with it.  I didn't know at the time, how the issue was going to be overcome.

On the Sebring page is a reference to a chance encounter with Simon North, ( a professional restorer of vintage and classic metal and who could literally build you a whole car from sheet steel if you asked him to, and you wouldn't tell it from an original.  He is a very  helpful and approachable guy and talking to him about the body requirements of the Sebring conversion (which what is what helped  me make the decision to go ahead with it, and is described on the Sebring page; so it is all your fault Simon), led me on to the rest of the preparation business and it soon became clear that with some mentoring from Simon, in the form of a few days of his time spent with me here, (paid for of course!), would set me on course for becoming a good body worker myself.  Having been shown some techniques which although seem basic, are nevertheless things that you wouldn't really  just drop on from a visit to Halfords, I have to say that I now find the whole prepping and finishing business fascinating and captivating.  I am thinking of retiring from work and just doing the odd car now and again for a fix.  This  might even include the odd customer now and again. 

Anyway, here goes.

Prepping the body for eventual spraying is a long and tedious job and while much of it is described on the Sebring conversion page, much of that was specific to the Sebring conversion itself.  I am continuing here with the generalised procedure, as would appertain to any shell which needs final finishing.

The Sebring wings etc, having been fitted and fettled, leaves us with a shell minus doors and tailgate, and ready for primer, having been rubbed down to the initial good paint layers.  These, as we said on the Sebring page, were rubbed down by hand with a short block and 60 grit Aluminium Oxide paper.  Rubbing down by hand is not much slower, if at all, than an electric sander, in my opinion, and gives much more feel to the work.  It enables you to rub down exposing the initial coats of primer and good top coat, getting through to metal in places.  This shows up the natural imperfections in the original metal shape, with dips coming out in original colour, rings of primer surround these, and high spots go through to the metal.  Thus, a much more level and even prepped surface results, which is better than going down to bare metal all over.  This process will need to be done at some stage, even if you go to bare metal, so you might as well do it now as later.

Bare metal on mine was prepped with a dusting of etch primer from an aerosol.  Thick layers are not required.  A thin dusting to etch the metal is all that is required.  Over this, again on the steel, I brushed on some Bonda Primer, which was used on the underneath, and is a good zinc rich primer recommended by restorers.

The next stage is to prime with high build 2k primer using a roller as much as possible, and a brush to fill in the areas unreachable with the roller.  It is very thick, and is applied unthinned using the 4" mini rollers; gloss hard sponge ones.  In this way, a good thick base is built up which can be further sanded smooth by using a long block, (400mm x 70mm) on long flat areas, with 180 grit paper.  This will level off the primer properly leading to a perfectly smooth finish with no dips or bumps or ripples.

The whole process is explained in some detail on the Sebring conversion page.

Just before all this though, we took a look at the tailgate.  The usual rust had appeared around and in the overlapping joint where the skin folds over the frame at the bottom.  It wasn't  very serious by the look of it, and would be ok if we could stop it now.

First, the flange is ground off.  Not completely though.  A small overlap is left in situ to hold the skin in place.  Most of the rust can be ground away now though, and there is no double skin left for it to hide behind, except on the very edge.
20th February 2010

All the rust is ground out with a tungsten carbide cutter and then treated with Jenolite.  Jenolite was also poured inside the frame and observed to be oozing out from the overlap on the outside. 

Before priming with 2k, a dust fre cover was broken out, after cleaning the shell down, to prevent more paint dust getting on the shell from the old cover, while painting.
25th February 2010

All the rest of the prepping into a state whereby the whole shell is prepared in two pack primer and rubbed down ready for the cellulose primer and to before the wet and dry stages on the cellulose filler primer are described on the Sebring page, although I have decided tp reproduce it below too for continuity.  After this it will be guide coat, wet and dry and then at last, the top coats which will also follow on below.

(3) Initial priming stages. Use of Two Pack High Build Filler Primer to fettle the surface.

After taking the doors off, the door shuts and A pillar, cills etc. could be prepped properly, and after this, much time was spent on finishing the front end.  Holes had to be cut out for the lights, and it was found that the moulding for the side / indicator lights assembly on the driver's side was awful, so needed several applications of filler to make the lamp unit fit properly. 

It was now the middle of February 2010. 

After this it was a case of just looking at the car for several days on and off, to find and correct any remaining small details which needed either prepping or rubbing down, or skimming again with filler.  Then we  have to wait for some warm weather to use some paint.

There is still plenty to do however, when one looks, and making sure all is prepared to the best possible degree takes lots of time to just look at it, and also to level off what we have before priming.

The glassfibre wings were full of small ripples and imperfections and these had to be levelled out, as did the areas where filler had been applied to correct the wing profile. Use of a long block is best, (400mm x 70mm), as this rides over the surface leaving the indentations and rubbing off the raised bits.  Any indentations will have to be filled, and if there are undue raised areas, the whole lot will have to be filled to match. 

Filled, at this stage, means filling with high build primer.  Basically the car will be primed with 2k high build primer, applied with a hard sponge roller and a brush for areas not rollerable.  Air fed masks are not necessary when rollering or brushing two pack, as there is no airborne spray particulate.  It is a good idea to use a solvent mask however, as the fumes are still pretty intolerable and won't do you any good.  With the solvent mask, you don't smell anything.  3M market a good solvent mask for epoxy paints and these are available from Shepherd Marine and, no doubt, other places.

Before applying the two pack primer, bare metal was dusted over with an aerosol of etch primer which will give the best key.  Over spraying onto painted areas is not a problem.  A layer of Bonda Primer was applied over this with a brush to give a zinc rich coating also.

I have found that Wickes mini rollers are very good at resisting the solvent properties of nasty toluene and xylene, whereas cheapo ebay ones fall apart after about five minutes.  B&Q ones were in between, but too expensive anyway.  Wickes ones are just right. 

Layers of hb primer will be applied as is necessary (three to five layers), to make up any low areas and high areas, and the long block used to grade these perfectly level, wherever practical, using 180 grit paper.  Any stippling left over, or pin holes left through paint or underlying filler layers can be skimmed over with stopper.  After rollering and skimming with stopper it was once again a patchwork quilt of greys.  Stopper up every imperfection, even the slightest nicks and the smallest patches of "orange peel".  Rub them down again with 180 grit.  On mine there seemed to be small pin holes and patches of stippling all over the place and virtually a whole weekend was spent just mixing up very small amounts of stopper and carding them over these small imperfections.  The more attention it gets now, the better the end result is going to be, so don't hurry.  Just keep looking at it.

There were a number of places where for various reasons, the primer was rubbed through to the metal or grp underneath.  Where I was happy that there were no issues of high spots needing the surrounding areas building up, or indeed if there were some of these issues and I didn't really want to go back to square one by rollering the whole of these panels again and starting from scratch, it was decided that blowing in of these areas with the high build two pack primer would be done using a touch up spray gun.  If the mix is 4:1 paint to hardener, then go for 4:1:4 where the extra 4 is standard thinners; nothing fancy.

Doing small areas like this, makes for only very minimal airborne spray, unlike doing the whole car,
and using a 3M solvent mask for epoxy paint as sold by Shepherd Marine  is an acceptable protection in these circumstances.  You can also do it with plenty of ventilation, as at this stage, dust is not a problem as it would be with two pack as a final finish.  In this way, much time was saved by not having to re-prepare the whole section again, and the sprayed sections would be ready to finish.  It is important however, that the whole car is covered in the hb 2k primer, for the protection it affords.  It is like a layer of plastic, and this excludes to the best degree possible, air and moisture, therefore preventing future corrosion.

Getting it perfectly level and free of all imperfections all over will entail use of a dark guide coat, which is any old spray paint, but preferably a gloss black or something close, dusted over, in order to pick out any remaining imperfections when you remove it again.  Initially do this with the long block with 180 grit, but finishing stages are done with 400 grade wet or dry in the palm of the hand, with warm soapy water.  Any bits of this paint left after rubbing down means there is an indentation needing filling, and if it goes right through, there is a high spot, so the whole lot will need re- priming again.  It shouldn't go right through at this stage though, as you will already have levelled it all off at the initial priming stage, which is why a number of thick rollered layers are applied in the first place.

I wanted to have the protection afforded by two pack paint, used as a primer, but want also to preserve an original type finish and therefore want to use cellulose as a top coat.  This also negates the issues inherent with sprayed two pack.  When the guide coat has been rubbed off with 400 grit therefore, and remaining imperfections dealt with with stopper, a couple of coats of cellulose filler primer are to be applied, and these will be prepared with 600 grit soapy wet wet and dry in the palm as before.

7th February 2010

And here, at last with the holes cut out for the lights at the front. This took a whole weekend as one of the sidelight "plinths" wasn't formed properly and had to be made up in filler.  Some Bonda Primer now applied to the metal bits.  Also a trial fit for the grille.  It would be no good leaving it and finding it wouldn't fit afterwards!

21st February 2010

The bonnet is one of Clive Wheatley's GRP RV8 ones with louvres.  The louvres were fairly good, but did need a lot of truing up with half round files to even them up properly.

Applying coats of paint is laborious and can result in some runs and sags from the roller and brush.  This is especially so as you will inevitably be hurrying to get the paint on before it goes off in the tray.  Don't mix too much up is the key.  I found that half a baked bean tin worth of mix is a bit too much to use up comfortably before it goes too sticky.  If you are just rollering, then this amount would be okay, but if brushing details in as well, it is too much.

I am aiming to put on about five coats of high build primer.  It is very thick stuff and it really does high build.  It is like applying a layer of filler.  After all these layers, it can be sanded smooth just like filler.

Top coat will be applied later when the weather is more like 18 degrees, and will be done in cellulose so as to retain the correct sort of finish for this age of car.

First partial coat of high build primer rollered on.
27th February 2010

After applying the first coat of primer, it was apparent that the curvature on the leading edge of the rear near side flared arch section and the rear curve of the one on the other side were a bit too "sharp".  Therefore at this stage, filler was again applied to fill the curve out more.  The first application is shown below after rubbing down to profile.  A second smearing filled in all the holes and this was pretty close to the desired shape.
28th February 2010

And now, after considerably more work, which was basically more coats of paint and full rubbing down with 180 grit paper and blocks, it looks like this.

21st March 2010

On first rubbing down the rollered layers to level it all out properly, there were a number of areas which went right through to the metal for various reasons, mainly those of levelling out properly.  Rubbing down also exposed some depressions which would not level out properly and were still holding stippling.  Apart from this, there were numerous defects, pin holes in filler, and pock marks which had to be put right with two pack stopper.  Rather than then paint over these with the roller again and have to go through the whole rubbing down process again, the areas which were exposed by these operations and not covered with the two pack primer, were sprayed in with a touch up gun and two pack primer as described earlier.

Rubbed through sections awaiting the spray gun. The lighter patches are areas of stopper applied over surface defects.
21st March 2010

A patchwork of stopper and areas rubbed through to the grp gel coat.  Awaiting spray over.

And finally after spraying in of all the areas needing touching up, and subsequent rubbing back again with the 180 grit paper, we have this again.

Just before we finished the wings as above, they were taken off so as to apply some finish to the inside surfaces.  As was the bonnet. When replaced the wings were fitted loosely, so as not to create a tight joint at the scuttle; it being important that the scuttle and wings are finished separated, so as not to create a paint join over the two, which will inevitably crack.  The bonnet is placed in situ too, and not bolted to the hinges, so as to be able to move it easily. 

9th March 2010

11th March 2010

(4) After the Two Pack priming and into colour.

After fully prepping the two pack primer and being satisfied that as many defects as possible have been ironed out, it was time to mask off the whole car ready for cellulose primer.  This is again high build filler primer in a different colour from the two pack primer; (a darker grey).

24th April 2010

Note that the front wings are mounted forward of their normal positions so that the scuttle can be finished over the edges at the sides so as not to generate that situation where the bead in the joint between wing and scuttle has an over painted joint which always cracks out leading to water ingress and rusting on un finished surfaces underneath.

Next tack ragging the whole lot to remove last remnants of dust and particulates.  The whole lot had previously been degreased with panel wipe and this itself was rubbed off rather than left to dry as it can leave deposits itself.

Morgan doing a good job with the tack rag.
25th April 2010

And just for the record, here it is in cellulose grey primer.
25th April 2010

Another guide coat applied before wet rubbing.  This will show up  more imperfections and all the scratches from previous course rubbing so all these can be removed with 400 or 600 wet paper.

28th April 2010

Hard to see  here but rubbing off the guide coat revealed a number of ripples in the finish which had to be rubbed through to even them out.
1st May 2010

It also resulted in a number of areas where to remove the guide coat meant rubbing back into the two pack primer underneath to gain correct profile.  Care was taken not to rub through to the metal as this would mean another coat of two pack on those areas.  After rubbing back through to two pack, the whole lot needs another spraying with the high build cellulose filler primer and the process repeated so that guide coat rubs off altogether without going through again.  To gain perfect profiles with no ripples, this process needs repeating four or five times, using the long block and coarse paper initially, but really, this should have already been done in the initial priming stage.  I didn't.  I opted to cut the stages to two in number.  After all it isn't a Rolls Royce and the results are fine and no worse than you would get in a professional body shop.  Probably better than most.

Ready for another coat of primer.
2nd May 2010

After a final coat of grey and rubbing this comprehensively with 600 wet paper, this was cleaned off with a wet sponge and chamois leather, then again, de dusted, panel wiped and tack ragged ready for colour.  The first colour goes on around all the edges.  A few coats around all the edges and hard to get to bits first stops you trying to blow these in afterwards and ruining the main panel finish.  Go round all the nooks and crannies comprehensively.

5th May 2010

You have to decide on a painting plan before you start.  Work out and plan every move you are going to make with the spray gun.  Where are you going to start and where are you going next and where are you going to finish?  My plan was to start at the front and work back.  A big spray shop would do the whole thing in short time.  With  my limited space, it is hard to move around it quickly so I decided to do it in sections.  Front wings first, then scuttle and half way up the A pillars, which is where we see it here below.

7th May 2010

Next it was roof and half way down the rear pillars, then the rear section and valance, and finally the rear quarters and wings.  Joints were over blown, but cutting them in afterwards is dead easy with cellulose paint and there is no visible join at all.  Previous sections were covered up at progress was made.

15th May 2010

After the main shell it was back to do the remaining panels.  Here, the bonnet is awaiting final prepping.

Morgan, eager for more chocolate, starts to rub off the guide coat with 600 grit wet paper.

21st May 2010

No, there's a way to go yet Morgan.

As an interlude, first the finished scuttle corners:
28th May 2010

And the finished rear end.
16th June 2010

There was an adhesion problem along the rear wing top seam for some reason and this had to be refinished back to metal.  Brushed two pack primer was followed by sprayed grey primer from an aerosol and then blown in with colour. 

This is Simon North on one of his visits up here, demonstrating the art of feather edged masking for blowing in, at this stage with the grey primer.  The grey was rubbed back and then colour applied with a similar mask albeit on a larger area.  Cutting back with 1500 grit and polishing with G3 makes an invisible join.

Then the doors, which up to now had not had any work done to them, had to be prepared.  Areas of surface rust etc. were ground out with the tungsten carbide cutter as  usual, then Jenolited to phosphate the surface.  The doors were in  exceptional condition but needed consolidation as these pictures show.

High and low spots revealed in stark contrast here, in the first sprayed coats of two pack high build filler primer.  You can just make out the difference between the metal high spots and the remaining guide coated dark grey low spots after treatment with the long block.  Several more coats were applied before the undulations became more acceptable.  After this, several coats of cellulose high build filler primer were also applied and the process repeated.
28th June 2010

The frame was first finished into colour.  The doors were then refitted before final prepping of the outer skin which was sprayed on the car.
30th June 2010

Reuniting the doors with the shell.  The outer skin was to be sprayed on the car so as to avoid potential damage in fitting.
1st July 2010

Morgan, below, putting the final touches to the respray.  Spraying is child's play.


What I have learnt about spray guns is that a cheap gun will give as good results as you will ever need with Cellulose, the Clarke Pro gun is to all intents and purposes identical with the DeVilbiss Gti and parts are interchangeable, and that when buying a DeVilbiss gun, especially a second hand one, you have to get one with the right combo of needle, tip and cap.  A high flow needle and air cap is essential for cellulose.  "Compliant" guns don't pass sufficient paint and are for water based base coats and such like. 

Be on the safe side and just get a £30 one from Machine Mart.  Also, use an inline adjustable pressure gauge at the gun connection, (not fitted in the below picture), as this is the only way of getting the right pressure through the gun (about 30psi), when controlling the fan shape as pressure markedly changes on adjustment.
2nd July 2010

Finally, the wings were fitted up properly.  The gaps and lines are looking pretty good now.
3rd July 2010

That's about it for the prepping and spraying.  All that remains to be done now is to finish rubbing down the new paint with 1500 grit soapy wet paper and polishing up with G3 polishing compound.  Areas so far treated thus are superb. 

Next we go to a new page:  Final assembly.